Neil Barrett built his fall collection around individuality and realism. “I wanted to be as realistic as possible—about what I do, about how and why I design,” he said at a preview at the headquarters, where he photographed the lookbook. This moment of introspection led him to consider the foundations of his language, going back to his design starting point in the 90 years.
Barrett is a great tailor and that hasn’t changed throughout his career. Precise lines, rigorous construction and sharp tailoring give his garments a strong personality and rooted in the moment. This season, he’s revisiting his repertoire, turning to musical tribes for inspiration, “because individuals matter if they belong to a community, and music is the greatest aggregator,” he explains.
Punk and post-punk, rock and new wave are his preferred conceptual backgrounds for modern uniforms. Don’t expect anything laid-back, aloof or spoiled; the sense of rebellion associated with certain musical movements filters through Barrett’s naturally rigorous, no-nonsense approach to design. Small twists here and there hint at a looser mood: argyle patterns subverted in Kurt Cobain-esque grunge; black leather jackets with a touch of Berlin-based Kraftwerk attitude; and rock concert T-shirts featuring zodiac signs badge.
Elsewhere, Barrett’s tailoring skills have just been reaffirmed in a series of kimono carcoats, cropped blousons, padded leather shirts and mixed fabrics (another favourite) reliability of his expertise. It’s been intact since he started.
