Nili Lotan wore Margiela and Jil Sander to lead the New York City design team during 90—first at Liz Claiborne and then at Ralph Lauren. Those years deeply shaped her way of thinking about fashion, and for Pre-Fall she drew on the minimalist chic looks of that much-cited era.
Lotan has been reflecting on the cultural shifts she’s observed in the wake of the post-epidemic, and in particular our new obsession with luxury. “Luxury means not overly adorning yourself with gold and diamonds, but treating yourself with something beautiful,” she explains. That sensibility captures the general spirit of her menswear and womenswear collections, which include crisp cotton tailoring, sleek leather coats, and tanks and T-shirts in luscious silk jersey.
The series are divided into three stories. The first is a black and ivory tailoring group, in which sophisticated oversized jackets are paired with gathered hem biplets or knee-length shorts for a ’90 chic power suit of modern proportions. On the menswear side, blazers were cut closer to the body, while trousers were kept roomy, a look that was digestible but still directional. The second installment is the sharpest of the series. Featuring wardrobe staples like pencil skirts, tank tops and blouses for work, it’s crafted in a warm-grey hue that provides a subtle contrast to the cooler palette. The and 13 looks stand out in the womenswear slideshow, where bottoms, outerwear and layered tops play harmoniously together. The third set is rooted in military work, refreshing a story that Nili Lotan clients will recognize. While it’s not an entirely new idea, uniforms are always tempting. One way,” explains Lotan. “She wanted to help women dress and look good, and she created sets that were simple and all matched. I try to be more free, but it’s with the same intention of empowering women and making them feel good. “