Norma Kamali has been in a residential area for many years. While visiting her new West Village space, I met a group of mannequins wearing the collection, and one designer was delighted with her new digs and balance sheet. “Our business has been crazy, crazy, crazy. I always ask what’s going on? Why do people want this from me now? I listen to what they want,” Kamari said. Her interpretation of the zeitgeist is that people want to feel good. “We disagree with the world situation, wars and government decisions that are being made,” she continued. “All of this comes at a price. I never in my life would have thought to say that, clothes are the answer, but I think we’ve gotten to the point where there’s nothing we can do, but we can get dressed.”
For spring, Kama uses “dopamine color” to lift the mood. There are jaw-dropping neon options and, of course, pink, but the designer notes, “In five different productions, the textures will give you that pink hue.” You can always count on Kamali for that metallic finish (Silver and pearl gold and silver threads here) and some swimming/sports elements. On demand, new this season is a pickle ball dress that pairs perfectly with other pieces like leggings and puffs. For the swim, Kamali brought back the high tops of Olivia Newton John and Jane Fonda, which she did back in the day. This time they are reversible.
Kamali is great to see the return of the miter. It’s one of her favorite techniques, and she describes it as a carefree attitude. She uses it on dresses that fold the top down to the waist like a deconstructed skirt, and it’s a great alternative to her useful hooded bodysuit.