Sunday, May 28, 2023
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Ottolinger Pre-Fall 2023 Collection

For Swiss-born, Berlin-based designers Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, après-ski is the shortest poem in the world and a culture unto itself.

“Everyone has this romantic fantasy about the mountain, and now things are changing,” the two said in a Zoom call. But as the ski season shortens, the sport’s aura — and after — remains larger than life.

“The Easiest Part of Skiing” gives them the opportunity to explore the spaces between off-slopes, shed their protective gear, and head off into the night. From there, the designers went to town to deconstruct the chunky knits and styled the pieces around 1975 ski wear and mountain essentials, then tied with velcro, cord, faux fur Bringing them into a more glamorous present, the Graffiti Orange print is a collaboration with Polish-born, Zurich-based artist Rafal Skoczek.

The ski underwear loses its temperature regulating features and becomes a thick mesh legging jersey with peek-a-boo cutouts and wraparound lacing for a fierce and fearless “look” It’s short, but the pants are long,” the duo explained. This idea was carried over to mesh leggings in recycled polyester with a ombré check pattern that faded to yellow. (While no-pantsuits look trendy, IRL they envision those paired with short skirts, for example). The voluminous ombré knit, the result of a collaboration with Athens Lab, was developed for shape memory and is meant to evoke a high-altitude horizon. Elsewhere, a spiral-stitched maxi dress with elegant bell sleeves played tricks: the semi-detached sleeves could be worn as shown, or wrapped loosely around the neck like a scarf. A first for the brand, curve-skinny denim is unembellished to better showcase the cut.

While the designer tends to give coats and coat-adjacent pieces a funky, minimalist vibe—the snowboard jacket becomes a playful one with an orange fur lining Skirts, padded jackets in black coated cotton seemed intricately constructed – and white puffers were an artful blend of style and function. Ottolinger’s base could revel in all of this. The same goes for the hooded knitted yoke. Paired with organically shaped ski glasses, they make for some eye-catching posts.



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