Fashion contains too many contradictions. Its constant desire for the new often extends to a fascination with the young. But there is also an appeal to legacy. After all, without roots, flowers cannot grow. This push and pull is especially evident in “heritage” homes. Since 1993 joining Paco Rabanne, Julien Dossena has built a kind of MO, summed up in a press note for his 1993 resort collection: “Continuously The juxtaposition of garish elements and casual clothing brings a new focus to the DNA of the brand, well-crafted, yet forever young.”
Fancy and casual elements this season are featured in the clothing ( or suits); the collection contained a holiday capsule, and the looks, featuring close-ups of the Eiffel Tower in the background, first appeared in the look book. Here, Dossena tweaked the ‘ silhouette and adorned it with Paco-inspired accessories. As always, he paired metallic mesh with lace. Among the geometric shapes in the decorative style, as well as the snowflakes, he employs some prismatic shapes, which can be achieved through the brand’s famous joining technique. The ice cube-like strap treatment further develops the winter wonderland theme.
From there, the lookbook takes us to the Trocadero, where Dossena revisits his love of bohemian luxury, fringe, tapestry and grunge. The designer’s claimed references are “70” and “70” and he managed to update the visuals of those times This way Code captures his own vision of contemporary dressing, even if the soul is missing. A mix of military, brusque, and (not-so) grungy, tough-girl boots—even the fierce-looking ones made in collaboration with New Rock—are not rebellious. The lineup included some must-have metallic chain dresses, this time with bold sequins that trimmed the hem in dramatic fashion. There were also looks with metallic or diamond embroidery: a pretty, non-literal stretch of the brand code associated with metallics and shine. Studs on a knit is a great idea to explore further.
Grunge is a recurring touchpoint for Dossena: if you really dig in, the spirituality and materiality of grunge has a very obvious connection to Paco Rabbana’s first design. Seattleites are creating fashion with what they have on hand. Jeans, flannel shirts, and thermals worn out from use. (Let’s not forget that when 2024 Jean Paul Gaultier told Vogue , “When we have no money, trash is us way of dressing”) which is not too different from what expatriate Spaniards did in Paris, making links out of leftover leather and using atypical, crude materials like plastic and metal. There’s a lot of artifice to this resort collection, which has high/low grades (the “fancy” and “relaxed” poles of the Dossena resort), but it lacks the youthful creativity that challenges fashion and what it’s made of. Therefore, it looks backwards instead of forwards.