Wei Lin and Zoe Champion designed the PH5 Joy is sometimes hard to remember, and the two take the responsibility of making clothes seriously. This season, the collection aims to illustrate the importance of marine conservation. Lin is a diver, so he has witnessed the bleaching of the Great Barrier Reef over time. The subtext of seafoam green, peach, lilac and buttery yellow knitwear introduced this season is a grim reminder of the fashion industry’s impact on our waterways (the impact of microplastics shedding from clothing is a particular focus of the collection).
That said, clothing made from sustainable materials has a reputation for not being fun — and frankly — not fun, so there’s definitely a welcome space to allow designers to brighten, appealing clothing in a more eco-friendly way. All of PH5’s garments are machine woven, producing less waste than traditionally manufactured garments, and this season they use “closer
But about the appearance of the clothes. The pair were inspired by century photographer Anna Atkins, who photographed early photo of algae and is credited with being the first to publish a photo book. Her blues clearly inspired some designs for clothes that looked like embossing, but her photoshoot also inspired wavy patterns in knitwear. There’s plenty of PH5’s signature wavy frocks and necklines (more fitted this season, given the marine inspiration). What feels fresh is a cropped polo shirt with a drawstring hem and layered shape.