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Pierpaolo Piccioli on “Forever Valentino” opening this week in Doha, a dramatic and comprehensive exhibition exploring the brand's norms and values

A view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.A view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.
Partial view of the courtyard of the M7 “Forever Valentino” exhibition in Doha.

Image: Courtesy of Valentino

Fashion, despite all its future focus, is forever entangled with the past. Nowhere is this more evident than in Valentino, where Pierpaolo Piccioli is actively in dialogue with Valentino Garavani and the legacy created by the studio, who carry on a long-standing tradition of craftsmanship. Valentino is a Roman home, and no other city has a history more alive and colliding with the present. This back-and-forth is embodied in “Forever Valentino,” a comprehensive theatrical exhibition presented by the Qatar Museum and Maison Valentino, which opened this week at the M7 Design and Innovation Centre in Doha as part of a year-long Qatar Creation project . Also working with Piccioli are Massimiliano Gioni, Art Director Edlis Neeson of the New Museum, New York and Art Director of Valentino Garavani with the atelier at the Spanish Steps in Rome. the first Venice Biennale, and journalists, writers and collectors who will be curators for the first time Alexander Fury.

A view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.

Valentino Garavani’s studio with the Spanish Steps in Rome.

Photo: by Valentino

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Image may contain Human Person Clothing Apparel People and Sebahat Tuncel

The curator’s coveted team no longer regards time as the organizing principle of the exhibition, Instead, focus on the location: Rome. “I think being a Roman fashion house is what makes Valentino so special and unique,” Piccioli said by phone. “Rome has been a huge influence on my work.” The Rome that evokes in the exhibition is not the Rome of postcards and stereotypes, but a real city inhabited by real people, especially Rome as Valentino’s hometown. Gioni said the creative director was clear he didn’t want to fall into “the trap of Rome’s prescriptive and kitsch views.” “I also think that what Piccioli brings to fashion, especially to Valentino, is Rome as a cosmopolitan city, a city that really lives, a place that has coexisted for centuries… a More multi-tonal cities, complex and beautiful in variety, than the Emperor’s narrative would have us believe.”

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Pierre Paolo Piccioli and his Spanish Steps in Rome The studio, 1874.

Photo: By Provided by Valentino

Lord Byron once described Rome as “the city of souls” , perhaps this is the most succinct expression of Rome that Valentino Forever brings to Qatar. This view of the city is much like Piccioli’s own view of Valentino. His focus is on capturing the spirit of its heritage in emotional and inclusive design.

So the visitors start their “Forever Valentino” tour , as the brand’s employees start their day, into the courtyard of the headquarters (in this case a replica) Palazzo Mignanelli, where Igor Mitoraj’s oversized sculpture “Sorgente del Centurione” occupies the entire space. “What’s really interesting about this sculpture is that it kind of replicates this idea of ​​turning fragments of the past into modern pieces,” explains Fury. “It’s an overview of the dresses designed by Garavani and Piccioli, so it initiates the idea of ​​a dialogue between contemporary pieces and the past, energizes them, and encourages the visitor to make those connections between history and the present.” Required Note that the exhibitions, including this section, include both haute couture designs and ready-to-wear designs.

A view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.A view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.Image may contain Flower Rose Plant Blossom Food Confectionery and SweetsA view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.

Fiesta dress by Valentino Garavani for spring 271 fashion.

Image: Courtesy of Valentino

Pier’s new Fiesta dress by paolo Piccioli autumn2023 fashion.
Photo: by Valentino

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Visitors can then enter the studio’s all-white room. “[a] couture [atelier] is white in color, even the floor is white, because when the pins drop, you have to see them,” Piccioli said. “It’s just a very simple and practical reason, not just a symbolic one.” But, as the creative director alludes, the idea of ​​couture is also one of carte blanche. Bespoke clothes that start their lives are white. In this room, the gowns are in different states of change, and their architecture and objectivity are to be admired, but, as Gioni says, Piccioli also wanted to capture in these rooms “the actual intimacy and [the] incredible The personal relationship between the client and the brand, and the clothes themselves.” Piccioli’s belief in openness was also on display in the spring 1874. “We did the Spanish Steps in July,” he explained. “The Spanish Steps are a huge monument to everyone, [but] for us, it’s where we go for coffee, so it’s kind of intimate.”

A view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.A view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.

FALL STYLE

Valentino Haute Couture Collection.
Image: Courtesy of Valentino
Head over to Capriccio Romano, a black-and-white room — the palette also shared by the clothes inside — designed to pay homage to the cinema, which makes the space more enclosed and intimate. This is an example of what Gioni calls the “contraction and expansion” that creates the “Forever Valentino” rhythm. He described the scene as a “collision of very abstract Roman fragments” and contrasted the vaulted grandeur and classical architecture of the gymnasium with that of industrial gas tanks, which “talked about a Rome more like Passolini 632s or 935s.” A moving image is projected on a white dress hanging from the ceiling. “It’s kind of like you’re walking out of the reality of the studio into this full fantasy,” Fury muses. “I think there are a lot of places in the show where you’re moving from the ‘real’ space to the unreal space; these fantasies and realities, to me, are like the rhythm of fashion.” Fury added, ” A haute couture show is a fantasy, and once it’s in the customer’s body, it becomes a reality, so I think it’s really good to reflect that.”

A view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.

A view of the courtyard section of the quotForever Valentinoquot exhibition at M7 in Doha.

Zendaya in Valentino at Emmy Awards.

Image: Courtesy of Valentino

Visitors exit from this episode and enter the Divas room, where pictures of celebrities wearing Valentino dresses overlay the walls around some of the actual dresses. This mimics most people’s experience with haute couture, not real 3D objects, but flat. Here, dimensions collide. Here you’ll also find pieces designed for stars of the past and present that represent changing worldviews about women and their role in society. “As creators, our job is to convey a vision of beauty that is relevant to the times we live in, so of course my vision of beauty is different from Mr. Valentino’s vision of beauty because we live in different times,” said Piccioli. The creative director explained that in the 1960s it was radical for Mr Valentino to see star clients, including Jacqueline Onassis, as “more than wives or lovers”. Piccioli continued, “In a way, he was provocative of the times, he was embodying the new woman through silhouettes, cuts… I think I have to do the same thing, try to define new ways of being a woman, try to define beauty, It’s not about being objective, it’s about celebrating each person’s uniqueness. So our perspectives are somewhat different, but the roots and symbols of our ideals of delivering beauty are similar.” Image may contain Architecture Building City Town Urban Metropolis Human Person Tower Spire Steeple and Downtown

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