Friday, June 9, 2023
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Rainmaker Tokyo 2023 Fall

Kohichi Watanabe has spent the past season exploring the catacombs of his own mind. Not in a navel-gazing or healing way, but by forgetting the real world — does that sound tempting? — but to explain the shapes and colors of autumn and winter that existed in his mind.

Led by Impressionist Ukiyo-e artists of the Edo period who made woodblock prints with images of snow-capped mountains and ocean waves, this The Kyoto-based designer picked the tea-brown, navy and soft beige that make up the collection straight from his memory, and punctuated them with a satisfying vermilion, which he says represents bright sunshine. It’s all rendered through a digital film, with models strolling through the bleakly beautiful grassy landscape of Miho, Shizuoka Prefecture, a place favored by the aforementioned Impressionists for its majestic views of Mount Fuji.

The brand remains the same—those kimono obi and blood-red glitter have become a Rainmaker signature in recent seasons—but there’s enough magic in the details to always It’s fresh. In addition to Ukiyo-e , karesansui (Zen garden) also provides an abstract touch point for Watanabe , which was reflected in the quilted trench coats, printed with geometric shapes and sewn into grooves, reminiscent of pebbles that looked like rippling pools of water.

Watanabe chose it for its warming properties and as a modern update to the hanten padded jacket, cold resistant The Japanese have been wearing them for centuries. The Rainmaker has a utilitarian vibe, and while it feels secondary to the aesthetics of the garments, it will no doubt be appreciated by anyone who shrugs off one of its quilted coats this winter, or straps firmly on a bespoke Jacket to protect against wind in cold weather. It’s a testament to Watanabe’s sensitive approach, which is why his clothes are always emotionally intelligent and superficially attractive.

However, Watanabe’s true mastery lies in his ability to incorporate traditional patterns from his traditional to modern, cool-looking garments. “Whatever the season, I always keep in mind the fusion of Western and Japanese elements,” he shared via email. “You can say I did it on purpose, even if it wasn’t, because as a Japanese designer, adding Japanese elements comes naturally to me.”



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