Thursday, June 8, 2023
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Random Identities Fall 2023 Menswear

Stefano Pilati explained that the idea behind Random Identities is that anyone can make it their own, and even write their own name in the blank space on the label. “Excerpts” of Pilati’s past work appear in the label’s fall collection. For example, there’s a clergyman-inspired sweater, and a bucket coat that’s somehow connected to his work for Saint Laurent, but there’s no question this is an “alt” collection with a Berlin spirit, where Brand is the foundation.

Pilati wanted to highlight queer culture this season; “I think it’s a conversation that should absolutely continue,” the designer said. There’s a suspender-like vegan leather bag, bra logos embroidered on sweatshirts, and jackets emblazoned with queer culture symbols that are iterations of the club graphic.

Pilati paid great attention to detail. Some of the pleats on the trousers were inset with mesh, and a Spage Age-like coat had a button panel at the hem that could be opened or closed. He chose recycled service fabrics for the work. For some reason, Vincent Gallo came to mind, possibly related to the cut and length of the trousers—certainly an asset to the hipsters and clubbers the collection seemed to be targeting. Pilati retains his nimble hand, and the cut makes these pieces truly versatile. The designer wore a brown jumpsuit from Product over a white shirt with a collared scarf, exuding a Boldini painting of Count Robert de Montesquiou. ) with all the elegance. )



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