Monday, September 25, 2023
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Random Identities Spring 2024 Menswear

Stefano Pilati is admired for his talent and innate elegance. The punk heir to Robert de Montesquiou, Pilati has walked the Louis Vuitton runway and appeared in the Anonymous Club look book; Appears as a ghost in his own Random Identity press kit.

“Honestly, a lot of people are interested in the way I organize my clothes. So basically I try on the collection and ask someone to take a photo. I don’t want to be a part of it, but I To give the clothes the right attitude,” the designer explained over the phone. Pilati’s face and limbs emerge from these images (better insert your identity, get it?), but it’s his gestures that animate the clothes. There’s even accessory suggestions; he loves sparkly chandelier earrings. “It’s not about being provocative, it’s just more fun, and I do think it makes people pay more attention to the clothes. You can see them in action, but at the same time, they’re very pure and essential, and you understand that attitude is driven by three Made up of parts.”

The frivolity was not suitable for the mood at the time, making the idea of ​​returning to the essence very suitable. This approach is the basis for random identities. It’s a mission-driven and apparel-driven brand that’s unique in its designs—quiet and alluring. Take a look first. Crafted from a technical fabric that drapes beautifully, this bomber looks classic but feels a little different. That’s because, the designer says, “everything is elevated, so the pockets look a little too high, and there’s only three buttons.” Track pants and shorts take a cues from traditional khakis, with raw, curved hems , gently draws the eye to the thighs, while the slit just above the back of the knee whispers “follow me, chase my secrets.”

In keeping with the skiwear inspiration Consistently, a pair of gray trousers with a black geometric pattern had a rugged, crisp feel, but the collection as a whole had a soft, pajama-like ease. Of note was a pair of pistachio trousers with pleats, creases and tapers in polyscady that defied expectations. “It’s specifically a silhouette that refers to the final glamorous moment, the beginning of the

era, when the shoulders get bigger, the trousers have big pleats and taper at the bottom, [ ] with a kitten heel shoes,” Pilati points out.

Pilati only uses slow-moving items and does not create large collections. Based in Berlin, he lives and works outside the fashion system. While his clothes are designed for anyone who wants to wear them, exploring all aspects of queerness is part of his mission. When creating this series of works, he was researching the history of the culture, and some background stills were taken from the documentaries he watched. “I would say let’s not forget where we are, [and] history will repeat itself,” he explained. If Pilati has his way, these revolutions will translate into evolution.



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