One of the difficulties in talking about fashion sustainability is that there is no universal measure. Another, more fundamental issue is that we’re long past the age of “green” design marked by a warm, crunchy aesthetic. Today, the “responsible” aspect of a piece of clothing is often invisible; thus, they shift the concept of “invisible wealth” from status to virtue.
At Ranra (fka Arnar Már Jónsson), co-designers Arnar Már Jónsson and Luke Stevens believe that integrity has value both ethically and financially. While the two recognized that Ranra was not powerful enough to implement large-scale change, the pair doggedly pursued ideas that they could use, Jónsson said, “and other people could take those ideas and make the world a better place. To us To say,” he continued, “it’s not about marketing how we do sustainable things, we actually want to make an impact.”
Inspired by Stone Island’s Massimo Osti, Ranra’s co-designers have specific principles that guide their work. One of these is the use of technology and nature to enhance the performance and utility of time-tested pieces such as khakis, duffel coats, bomber jackets and track pants, with the ultimate goal of “improving someone’s everyday life”. . These innovations, say the designers, are a testament to the brand’s existence.
The fall collection kicks off with one such piece, which the duo describe as a monomaterial jacket, meaning that all parts of it, from the body to the fasteners, are Made from a single fabric developed by Ranra with a company that makes fabric recycling machines, the naturally dyed jackets are said to be directly recycled at the end of their useful life. The designers also used cornstarch for water repellency, while the denim in the collection underwent a water-repellent backstonewashing process involving laser etching, a technique they hope others will adopt and make more widely available. Stevens and Jónsson treat some of their garments as objects, and many are crafted to be reversible. Likewise, a pair of deceptively simple pants can be double fun; they’re chinos in the front and joggers in the back.
While designers put a lot of emphasis on technology and practicality, they always make room for storytelling, which is often derived from folklore. For fall, they tapped into Jónsson’s Nordic heritage with Icelandic sweaters, lots of layering, and iterations of what Icelanders call the “power suit,” a fleece-lined nylon jumpsuit designed to keep out the cold. Ranra offers it as a one-piece that comes in two parts (top and bottom) and separates (meaning a wool garment worn over a nylon garment, not as a lining). These powerful suits have motifs resembling trolls, including a mother figure named Grỳla—an idea that Jónsson created shadow puppetry for his young son.
The styling and choreography of the lookbook created a dreamlike vibe that exudes from the entire collection. Despite the emphasis on warmth and protective outerwear, somehow the photos evoke a sense of hiding from the dark and cold. It’s almost as if you’ve been invited into a story circle where the story of a hero who is both extraordinary and ordinary is told; clogs on the ground, pearls and stars in hand.
