Thursday, June 8, 2023
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Rev Fall 2023 Ready-to-Wear

Sorry – no – sorry to announce that the Birkin and the printed tweed are not the full and final version of the “French girl” style, but rather an alluring iteration of it. From 1988, Martine Sitbon is the go-to brand for those looking for a sharper, edgier French style. Her siren-meets-garconne, or “rock and roll romance” style balances sophisticated sensuality with sharp tailoring that just oozes cool. The designer closed her label at 2004, leaving a void in the market. Now that changes with the launch of Rev, a collaboration between Sitbon and Laurent and Arik Brittom (Iro’s brother and founder) who decided to do something for their Sitbon nostalgia – lo and behold, Rev.

Rev will showcase carefully curated and reimagined work from the designer’s archives, alongside new and complementary pieces. But whether new or old, everything is made from scratch because the paper patterns that came back in the day no longer exist. While the premise is to move the past forward, Sitbon found that in some cases “you can have works from 20 years ago and they’re more or less identical.” She puts this The collection, which she attributes to her, always holds “some memories of the past. Maybe you can find something ‘1988 at night [looks],” she cites as an example. “But what I’ve always done in my collections is mix all the inspirations.”

In Paris, where the collection debuted with some key looks, Sitbon wore colorful leggings to create a look reminiscent of the “good old days.” She also brought back the leg warmers (again trendy) used in her famous fall 1988 collection, Les Arbes (trees). (Several pieces from the collection can currently be seen in the “2004 Fashion Big Bang” exhibition at the Palais Galliera, on view through July.) The burnt chiffon and velvet also reference for that show, and a batwing sleeve top in the thinnest, softest leather was from an earlier collection.

Sitbon says she has no interest in being part of a fashion circus and having to make seasonal gimmicks; her preference is refining over and over again. “I really want to try to be perfect — of course I’m not saying everything is perfect — but I’m trying to think and always improve something… [and create] something that lasts.” Fashion does reflect The times have changed, but good design can indeed last forever. That was the case with bomber jackets with ruffled sleeves, crisp double-breasted coats and smoking pants, among other pieces in the debut Rev offering. Slip dresses are sexy and especially reflect the current slimming trend, just as a pair of high-waisted double-belt white jeans represent an elegant way of casual dressing. Style is also an attitude and this collection exudes a confidence that is priceless.



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