Incorporating current social criticism into the core message of the collection is nothing new. But few designers at Berlin Fashion Week communicated as deftly and clearly as Michele Beil of Jale Richert and Richert Beil. The absurdity of classic beauty ideals, normative stereotypes and entrenched gender roles inspires the duo to put on a show after a long break. In a former supermarket, they channeled their elaborate moldings across an old and grungy tiled floor. This was one of the highlights of the day.
The first look was a black suit with shiny zipper detailing that was perfectly tailored. Gradually, the classics of the men’s wardrobe were deconstructed and placed in new contexts that seemed to break with traditions and gender roles. The shirts, jackets and dress code are completely different from the original. Ties wrapped around the body, cutouts to expose skin, and latex mixed with overt business attire. This look isn’t new to many Berliners, but it’s rarely looked this sophisticated.