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Rodebjer Stockholm Spring 2023

Carin Rodebjer, a fashion veteran, chooses Exit the traditional fashion show format to explore new ways of working, communicating and growing the brand she founded in New York. Now in her native Sweden, Rodebjer’s focus for the past few seasons has been finding more responsible ways of working. “We’ve pushed it to where we’re about % better fabric choices, ‘ she said when we met at her showroom. “But most of all, we want to make wearable, beautiful clothes.”

The key to understanding Rodebjer’s spring collection is not the clothing, but the brand of new retro sneakers. The designer has been in action, and all of these actions give the collection an unexpected sense of movement. Nylon was the staple of Copenhagen’s spring runway show, and Rodebjer used it to create the season’s must-have cargo/jogger pants, as well as shirts and coats with drawstrings at the waist and bows at the neck. Other positive touches include bike shorts and a hoodie with a crocheted varsity “R” and drawstring. Crochet is also used on the holiday-inspired cut-out fringe top, a print also done on terry, inspired by the work of Italian artist Carla Accardi.

In addition to these sunny and sporty pieces, there are simple urban pieces that Rodebjer is best known for, such as white trouser suits, matching Oversized blazers in bias-cut silk, trench coats and miniskirts with ribbon edges, and a stylish jacquard logo coat. A set of knitted sweaters feels too retro and seems to be torn between vacation and sports, neither. There is no associated narrative here, instead the lineup reads like a postcard collection of various sunshine postcards.