Roland Mouret most likely did his signature folding technique while blindfolded. Mouret is a specialist in fabric manipulation, subtly transforming the shoulder or hip with a few deft pleats. Blindfolded, yes, but not in his sleep: there’s nothing rote about Murray’s work. Even now, two decades since Mouret first began in London for the refined but raw collection that helped launch the semi-couture phenomenon, his folds are as instinctive as ever. (Not to mention widely imitated.)
“Louise Wilson [the late legendary Central Saint Martins fashion mentor, a force to be reckoned with] once told me, ‘You’re the best Students I’ve never been,'” Murray said with a laugh recently via Zoom. “The question is, how do I use 20 years of my career to get the fold I have today? Even if it’s simple, it has to be signed.”
Which brings us to To the current incarnation of the Mouret brand, a commercial partnership has been established with Han Chong of Self-Portrait. It aims to attract new (and younger) customers as well as Mouret’s loyal fan base. And yet, there’s still plenty of this thoughtful construction going on, contrasting with the sleekness and (relatively) simple allure of the silhouette, whether it’s the draped fan of fabric, the one-shoulder detail on an acid lime slim dress and an emerald green jumpsuit. or twill drape over the belly of a red floor-length dress.
Mouret’s new creations are sparkling flowers here: a striped mini dress shimmering from the neckline of a black dress—or make the most of the aquamarine sequins. Like most of the offerings here, that watery teal shimmer sings. Despite the elegance of Mouret’s black, the collection is an ode to bright, upbeat shades. “It’s therapy, it’s a tool for our well-being — and color matters,” he said. “I’m a maximalist and a minimalist at the same time. I need to express life through color.”