Tuesday, September 26, 2023
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Roland Mouret Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear

Roland Mouret As a designer, it is fully explained At this point you can look at the origami folded cap sleeves on the dress and think, well, this is very Roland. In fact, “That’s very Roland” is what he used to say in the spring 2000 series, Get further zip and vibrancy from its palette, which ranges from teal to candy pink and scarlet to tangerine. sinces, when he waved the pink scissors directly at the fabric to conjure clothes, not to mention his subsequent great success with the Galaxy, which A dress that shapes the world: pleats and drapes across the bust, upper arms or shoulders, reverse stitching, the precision of a high neckline, unfolding in the most elegant yet coolest fashion. They’re all here and looking as good as ever.

But also different. These days, Mouret is showing off one of his signature embellishments (one that always aims to be more flattering to the wearer) for every dress, jumpsuit or evening show. However, while it reduces the amount of design detail, it doesn’t actually reduce it: the impact remains. Mouret is now taking a different approach to design, thanks to his new business arrangement with Self-Portrait designer Han Chong and his nascent group SP Collection. “‘Can you make it purer?'” said Murray, who asked himself during the creative process. “Let’s choose a detail and that’s it.”

This method will undoubtedly What Ray does has taken to a different place price-wise, but it’s also an opportunity to connect what he’s doing with a whole new generation; young women are more likely to pass it on in the two-dimensional world of social media Judging the success of what they’re wearing by looking at it, not seeing it from every angle in a three-way mirror in the fitting room. You could certainly say that’s Murray’s true hallmark: being able to take what he does and what he knows and move it forward so that he can move with the times. He’s never had a lot of nostalgia, but there’s always been a lot of philosophical thinking and a pragmatic understanding of where fashion is and what people might need and expect.

So for the first time he used glittery surface decorations like sprinkles on short tight dresses Small diamonds, or adding a deep scoop neckline which he likens to a smile — these things happen because he challenges himself to think about what this guy can do next with the Mouret label. It’s a nod to the way fashion is democratizing to the benefit of those who wear it. Unsurprisingly, he also had ideas for the return of the sexy dress, which has slipped off many runways in Milan. There’s plenty in his collection, but the real reason he thinks it’s enjoying such a resurgence: women’s dedication to portraying their bodies and bodies exactly the way they are. “It’s not up to the designer,” Mouret said. “It’s the women saying, ‘This is what I want — respect it.'”




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