bring it on, 2023. Well, that’s what I’m saying, but let’s put some conditions on that statement, at least when it comes to fashion. Bring it on anyway, but perhaps without the recent penchant for brutal trends, microtrends, or trends without any prefix at all. Not sure about you, but eyes — mine, I’m talking here — are drawn and kept on clothes and productions that resonate with longevity, non-disposability, and the joy of creating. To be honest, I have absolutely no evidence to support this claim, but I think Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello probably feels the same way.
his (I mean: very powerful) spring 2023 collection. The familiar becomes new and the new becomes familiar, in a palette that defines classics – ivory, sand, gold, earthy brown and black, with occasional teal, burnt orange and blush, All of these are old school with elegant pointed slingbacks or rhinestone ankle strap sandals. (Oh, and tons of darker shades too. Not sure why I find this particularly alluring, but it is. And then I do come from a generation that wears sunglasses to nightclubs
. )
All the YSL-isms are here, but tweaked, because Vaccarello has an ineffable way of reshaping their proportions to make us feel exactly right in the moment: the shoulder line of a smoking has distinct standouts; trousers cut in a killer flare from the knee for a tight fit with every step; /7 resonates, with archetypal formfitting dresses transformed into crop tops and sinuous skirts. Another YSL-ism of yore also gets a new look: Monsieur Saint Laurent’s ’80 and ‘104 was reimagined as a miniskirt and bodysuit. (A neat reminder that Vaccarello has been busy adding his own style to the drapes for a while now: think of a bodysuit from a few seasons ago that could easily be as super-glam as the most statement-making evening look, only with the here and now.)
For Vaccarello, his spring and fall collections have always been the link between his summer and winter shows, arguably opening or closing, and it’s always fascinating how the former link and flow into the latter . Spring had a lot of that going on: A trench coat draped over an ankle-length skirt was reminiscent of last winter, while the minimalist long lines of a jersey dress were a precursor to his bold, off-the-shoulder summer. But what resonates here, and what keeps the eye on the whole process, is how the collection addresses the twin pillars on which the YSL brand was built, the medieval fashion era codes of tailleur
(cut) and flou (anything soft and/or flowy), they are the guiding principles of French fashion.
Vaccarello gave the collision of these two approaches a very him melody: gorgeous foam chiffon dress with ruffled hem Wear it with a caban trimmed with fluffy flowers or a distressed leather bomber. Heritage, tradition and craftsmanship, but handled very quickly :2023, this is how it was achieved.
