It’s only the first day of New York Fashion Week, but from what I’ve seen and previewed so far, many collections seem tighter and sharper, which bodes well for the entire All seasons are good. The ocean is one place where this change is happening.
Monica Paolini and Sean Monahan designed their ski-themed Gucci Vault capsule alongside their fall collection, bringing the Bavarian theme from the collaboration to the mainline. “I’ve been thinking about how to change it up, combine it with menswear and do things in a more minimal, chic way, which seems to be where fashion is going,” says Paolini. Take Ivy proved to be a useful reference, she said, though the series had more of a “French girl” vibe than preppy style, and in that context Bottom left
The warm American style of past seasons has not been abandoned, but instead shelved in an elegant bohemian style that incorporates elements of movement and tailoring. Paolini Sea-ified sweatpants, which added crocheted side stripes around the legs, and offered a color-block jumpsuit in Japanese ripstop, added a little tomboy to the collection. There are plenty of little surprises in the collection, such as a fisherman sweater with the back of the shirt, a long shirtdress that peeks out from the slit of a midi skirt, melon sleeves on a reversible top hat, and the softest teddy bear coat ever made from a plastic water bottle made of materials. Design tweaks and styling tricks like these turn a classic into a hero. Pairing a blazer with lace tailoring made an ultra-feminine dress “sweet”; adding lace panels to a tweed skirt had the opposite effect. This is a collection that perfectly achieves a harmonious balance of opposites. She walks so firmly!