Tuesday, June 6, 2023
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Soulland Copenhagen Fall 2023

Skateboarding was Silas Adler’s gateway into fashion, and it’s still changing his world, even as its boundaries expand. “I didn’t want to start in Copenhagen, but in Florence, because going to Florence to do Pitti also introduced me to the production in that region,” the designer said during a walkthrough. Adler met an old skate buddy in the Italian city, who gave him access to factories full of slow-moving material, which he cut and pasted into his fall collection for Soulland. The most striking examples are the bonded half look, paisley pattern and red leather. Elsewhere, tapestry fabrics were upcycled, as were floral textiles used in an après-ski style bodysuit.

Overall, the series is less commoditized than previous generations, and Adler has moved away from using a seasonal “mascot” (Hello Kitty last spring) and is more Focus on silhouette. Some bonded fabrics work well with a stiff A-line, but soft corduroys, knits and pretty teddy-bear coats work just as well. The harmony of the palette also works in his favor. If you somehow missed this message, the bells of tailoring some custom pieces might wake you up.

Working with Italian factories gives Adler access to previously unavailable premium fabrics This modern collection originated in the T-shirt business. Luxury was not part of Adler’s entry into the business. His approach to work is honed by skateboarding and hip-hop culture, “[it’s] less about quality than expression, about the subculture behind it.” He also has a Scandinavian belief that clothing It should be “very democratic, [and] need to be somewhat affordable.” The transition from designing skate/streetwear to a full men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collection has not been straightforward, with the brand relying heavily on seasonal collaborations. But the fall lineup looks tighter and more grown-up. Going forward, Adler hopes to offer more products, from T-shirts to limited-edition items, at a wider price range.

The materials he uses here and the connections he makes in Italy will help him achieve this. Usually one of the big names on the Copenhagen schedule, Soulland canceled it this season and hosted a dinner instead. Whether or not the feast was inspired by Italian heritage, the prints Adler created for this season were based on Renaissance art.



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