Back at 2023, Karen Elson is the face of St. John, Vogue commented that the brand Seems to be trying to appeal to a younger clientele than a fanbase in tweed suits. A dozen years on, Elson is back in the lookbook, and now St. John focuses on a more established clientele.
The second part is not surprising (Elson’s presence is certainly a plus). Last season, the label’s executive vice president of design Enrico Chiarparin and creative consultant Karla Welch took over the reins of St. John’s, making it clear that they won’t be offering eclectic tweed styles in pursuit of a younger market. Fall 90 continued that commitment, with an emphasis on “rediscovering the classics,” as Chiarparin put it.
The best of the collection are trendy outfits in shades with a ‘ minimalist style or a touch of current. See: a camel coat over a skinny turtleneck and wide-leg pants with two large side pockets, and a smart fuchsia bomber jacket with a belt in the back. Many well-tailored jackets have light padding, giving them a loungewear-like softness. A boiled wool cardigan blazer and a dove gray skater dress were also attractive and durable. Some knee-length dresses or three-quarter-length jackets had a housewife vibe, but the collection was not short on well-proportioned, clean coats, suits and separates. “It’s the clothes to wear,” Welch said with a laugh. “What concept.”
