Sunflower’s take on the trending ’80s was informed by New York’s two poles during that decade: Punk and Power. On paper, Richard Hell and Gordon Gekko might make strange bedfellows, but their sartorial codes wove together nicely in the Danish brand’s fall collection, which was presented on the runway in Paris, and shown to Vogue Runway in Copenhagen. Pinstripes coexisted nicely with actual silver metal coated jeans. Ties were back, coats were longer, and a reversible shearling vest topped a classic pant suit.
Bling, flash, logos…they’re tired, said Ulrik Pedersen. “Men would like to dress up, men are ready again to look sharp.” To appeal to a generation of men who haven’t worn suits before, he continued, “you also need movement, you need maybe to work with more technical fabrics that have some kind of stretch in it, because I don’t think we are there where the young people want to look like their Dads; you need to play around with the look.” That’s Sunflower’s m.o., actually, and they delivered on it with a collection that walked a line between trad and bad (meaning good).