Alice Temperley decides to divide her collection into two parts : A spring collection and a summer collection. “We think that since they are two very different narratives, they should be presented separately. Also, from a buyer’s point of view, it makes sense,” she combs through the basement of a luxury west London townhouse Railroad track.
For spring, Temperley wanted to celebrate spontaneous, minimalist dressing. A collection of pieces suitable for evening wear, from backless floor-length gowns with cape sleeves embellished with mirror ball sequins, to long tuxedo jackets and voluminous crimson suits. “We wanted it to feel regal and elegant, but still fun to go out at night,” she said.
Summer, on the other hand, draws inspiration from classic seaside concepts. With her studio in Somerset, a country retreat filled with picturesque beaches, the designer felt compelled to create pieces suitable for a glamorous day at the beach. Piece tulle and chiffon dresses with delicate floral embroidery and matching blazers stand out, as do the Cowrie shell-pattern dresses, the new print rand’s best-selling style on B. Lightweight knitted double suit with trompe l’oeil effectoeil pocket detail , is a welcome addition to the collection, and designers should expand this area in future collections. The same goes for men’s clubs, which also come in, “and buy a small men’s size,” Stumpfl said at a showroom appointment in New York. I had my wife steal my clothes, and management always wanted to give them their own, They always said, ‘Please do something for us. The CEO asked the same question, so we decided to make a little capsule collection and use what we have in-house. So we have fabrics that we share with menswear, and we have fabrics that we share with menswear Style, we used craftsmanship.”
Stumpfl admits to having ‘secret weapon’ in development of his womenswear capsule: his Wife Daphne Karras (the two met at Central Saint Martins) worked with Alber Elbaz at Lanvin. The duo designed a wardrobe that included a white tuxedo, double-faced coat, long shirt tunic, a pair of tailored jogging pants, and, of course, a suit, all in exquisite fabrics and exquisite craftsmanship. featured; forty minutes spent on a buttonhole. “We wanted to keep it masculine because I think it really connects us to the things we’re good at,” Stumpfl said.
This fad exists outside of fad: “I work more like a tailor work, so I focused more on balance throughout the garment,” says Stumpfl. The type of collaborations he is involved in are with textile manufacturers – the designer is poetic about the width of the loom and the number of threads per centimeter – and his mission is to preserve the heritage of these fabric houses and craftsmanship, which creates a sense of connection . “People are interested in what we’re doing because it’s something that’s totally against throwing away. A piece like this,” he declared while holding an inky black tuxedo, “you can’t throw it away, it can’t be! It A true display of human capabilities.”
The Brioni Donna is a custom product available at the Brioni store. In October, the collection will debut in select fabrics exclusive to Net-à-Porter.
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