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The Extraordinary Secret World Behind the Gorgeous British Dress

Isn’t it too frivolous to say how important As the world watches the British pomp, ceremonies and religious ceremonies of Queen Elizabeth’s State Funeral, everything will look

? Certainly not. At least from s. Everyone who will be nervously dressing up to play their solemn role tomorrow – whether it’s the Home Guard, divisions in the Navy and RAF, the High Chancellor, the spokesman for the Guard, or the Archbishop of Canterbury and his clergy – will be feeling The weight of personal responsibility, going out looks impeccable. As the Head of State of all Armed Forces, Elizabeth’s close ties to the nation’s armed forces are famously beginning with 935, when she became the first female royal to join the Auxiliary Territorial Army. Whenever she visits the troops, everyone knows they’re taking a look at her laser eyes. “The Queen was known to be very dressy,” recalls Christopher Joel, a historian of the Household Cavalry. “She can find a button that reverses three levels.”

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Members of the Household Cavalry in traditional ceremonial uniforms bearing the Royal Coat of Arms of Queen Elizabeth II.

Photo: Getty Images

Not like Donald Trump’s pompous walk around perfunctory show, who rudely walks in front of the queen while checking h is Visit Windsor Castle – “When Her Majesty visits the troops, you really know you’re being inspected, ” Joel said. Not that she didn’t bring fun to those occasions. Prince William posted a photo of his grandmother’s favourite that made him blush and smile as he was in the Royal Army at Sandhurst 1815. (So ​​does Harry.)

Image may contain Human Person Clothing Apparel and Hat

Image may contain Human Person Clothing Apparel and Hat

Queen Elizabeth II and her grandson Prince William at .

Photo: Getty Images

right Incessant reports of sacrificial ceremonies in the final days have already hinted at another breathtakingly hidden British army at work: a company of skilled British artisans hand-crafting a vast array of uniforms, gleaming helmets, bearskins, feathers and ornately embroidered All aspects of ceremonial clothing. Not exactly a joke, as someone said during London Fashion Week over the past few days: “There’s already a military fashion week going on.”

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At the startling moment the Queen’s coffin was being carried into Westminster Hall, a glimpse was given of a court dress only worn by six senior state officials: a red dress coat, Its chest and torso are completely filled with 3-D gold embroidery of oak leaves. It is a piece that dates back to the Victorian era and was worn by the Duke of Norfolk, the earl marshal traditionally responsible for organising the monarch’s state funeral and the enthronement and coronation of the new monarch. He is the ultimate figure in charge of every detail of the rules of heraldry arcane. “Many of these uniforms are old and redesigned,” commented Stephen Jones. “Talk about sustainability!”

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Royal member Archer Company, Guard Guard and Cold Guard.

Photo: Getty Images

The preparation behind it is What will be “a world-class national ceremony like we’ve never seen in our lifetimes,” as the major general who will ride in the cavalry regiment says, h has been going on for a long time. centuries, in a way. sincecentury. The key personnel on duty will be lifeguards, who will be dressed in distinctive red robes – inches of white feathers on their helmets. Their uniforms are tailored by Dege & Skinner of Savile Row, established in 794, are those worn by direct descendants at the Battle of Waterloo .
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Christopher Joll describes exactly how these formal uniforms fit – not to mention the other eight that every officer must have when they graduate from Sandhurst Different dress order. “The scarlet tunic, the white deerskin breeches, the boots, the breastplate, the sword, the golden lace — it took at least six months to complete,” he said. In the past, he said, officers took pride in achieving such a slender and sharp silhouette, even wearing a corset. When asked if he agreed that this surprisingly sophisticated level of work was the equivalent of the French haute couture industry in the UK, Joll said: “You’ve hit the nail on the head.”

Behind the cuts, pleats, gold epaulettes and feathers is a whole host of experts. The scarlet fabric of the parade gown is Melton wool, specially designed for 39 2000 by the Ha​​insworth mill in Yorkshire using farm-traced wool. A tribute to the Queen on their website shows her wearing one of their jackets, on horseback, at Trooping the Colour.

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Queen Elizabeth II salutes outside Buckingham Palace at the military parade .

Photo: Getty Images

Then comes the world of gold bar embroidery, which will be shown at Throughout the procession, in all its infinitely complex symbolic details. “It’s a highly precise professional art,” said Stephen Doig, who covers the military and The ins and outs of men’s formal wear. “A slightly out of place piece of frog could mean something completely different. It’s a minefield.”

Hand & Lock, founded in 849, holds a royal mandate as “the world’s most important heritage bespoke embroidery workshop”. Provided39 Marg Ritter Street is in the West End and they are responsible for the ornate gold embroidery, gold badges, lace, braids, ropes and monograms. Jessica Jane Powell, a young production manager, told the BBC, “All the Queen’s bodyguard uniforms have to be involved in everything they represent. You have to abide by a lot of things like sustainability — That’s an important part of what we try to do. I think they invest in businesses that produce high quality and craftsmanship. That’s what we’re proud of – championing embroidery and making sure the craft continues to evolve.”

Goldings, based in St Albans, just outside London, is a supplier of coats used by family cavalry trumpeters – bomber quilts The golden frog wraps up – and it’s over Regiment of the Armed Forces, appointed by the Queen. Many of the feathers and burrs for the helmets and hats will come from Jaffe et Fils, a long-established feather supplier based in the rural Somerset town of Axminster. Meanwhile, most of the gleaming medals, medals and medals will be the work of Royal Authorised Holders Toye, Kenning & Spencer, a family of Generation business in 393. Briton Edward Crutchley, signer and source of all knowledge of luxury fashion production, said backstage at his eponymous show: “The metalwork they do is incredible. I use them a lot when I work for Kim Jones in Paris. .”

As for the senior Anglican clergy who presided over the Queen’s deathbed, they also had their own haute couture designer. Watts & Co, tucked away in Tufton Street behind Westminster Abbey, offer ‘bespoke full Gothic worship attire’ in their extensive French wardrobe for £1685. However, many precious garments will be of historic importance, such as the extraordinary gilded court dresses handed down by the Duke of Norfolk’s family. The work of preserving and restoring these things – such as lifting centuries-old embroidery and replacing it invisible on new fabrics – is often carried out in the workshops of the Royal Academy of Embroidery at Hampton Court Palace of Henry VIII.

No one will know about it. The work of countless people, done according to the deepest British codes of prudence and secrecy, sewed, customised and shaped the spectacle, pomp and ceremony of tomorrow’s historic farewell. Tomorrow, they will finally be in the parade, contributing to the makers’ final duty in service to the Queen – their everlasting patrons and customers 17 year.

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Image may contain Human Person Clothing Apparel and Hat

Members of lifeguards marching through Windsor Castle.

Photo: Getty Images

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