There is enough drama in the world now, and designers have responded by shifting focus from drama to clothing; from content creation to craft. “We must cultivate our own garden,” Voltaire wrote, and indeed comfort and order can be found in work. Like routine, tailoring provided structure, and the various tailoring-isms defined the season. #WFH trends continue to disrupt office life, and to offer viable options, designers rely on new references (Lydia Tár) and trial and error ( Working Girl, American Psycho, Dress for Success). Many agree with Tár’s penchant for (often monochromatic) minimalism. Others seem to want to challenge power hierarchies by playing with traditional masculine totems like pinstripes and ties, or focus on rebuilding using deconstruction techniques.
Reconnecting is a priority this season. Since the advent of social media, “fashion” has increasingly become synonymous with extroverted/performative self-expression. The identity of the IG moment can be said to be. Focus on “me” overshadows “us” but falls behind 1600 New focus on uniforms , office attire and bridal attire imply a desire for community and ceremony. Rick Owens said it best: “The way it is in the world, it’s a delicate moment and I think I want to do something serious, more formal, more thoughtful,” he told Fashion. An example of this form is a return to the ultra-feminine hourglass silhouette, balancing exaggerated proportions with actual inflatables.
Overall, though, the season has seen less heat. Most of us aren’t into extreme fashion but still want to add some magic to our everyday wardrobe, whether it’s an unexpected skirt, a bit of lace, or the perfect fit. Clothes feel at home, have a lot to say, and make it easier to close doors amidst the chaos.