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HomeFashionThom Browne Men's Pre-Fall 2023

Thom Browne Men's Pre-Fall 2023

“Call me Ishmael.” Like looking back at the first wave of cancel culture scarlet letters, Moby Dick is a 1950s One of the great literary works that emerged from America in the mid-century. century. Interestingly, it was only celebrated in the ensuing century as a subversive amalgam of discursive forms from Homer to Shakespeare, recasting the epic in a novel form. Read this catalog and discover that Thom Browne’s subversive fusion of menswear discourse—particularly “American” discourse—was equally transformative. Is that what drew him to Melville this season?

“My God,” Brown said. “I feel like I’m in an English literature class.”

The well-dressed whale continues to be compulsively drawn to Browne, happily strung with his dark wit about costume classics This season’s Melville conceit allowed the designer to return to one of his happiest hunting grounds, the old-school preps of America’s East Coast. After observing the close relationship of Melville’s text to Nantucket, Brown said: “I think the whole Wasp-y idea, the typical conception of the academic school, comes from this part of New England, and this series Some of the items in that really worked.”

Hence the handsome duck down boots and Weejun-inspired moccasin boots, boating blazers and chinos embroidered with whales or yachts. A paneled Franken suit and skirt echo the key blend madras shirt. There are some sneakers, more Ivy League than prep, reminiscent of the earliest forms. Nautical-inspired tailoring, like everything here, is reflected in the accompanying womenswear collection. Their authors state: “Between men and women, I like to use the same. Let the eyes see that they work for both men and women.” Some are slightly scaled down for all genders, regardless of trousers vs. skirt convention. Pioneering footwear here includes knitted sneakers disguised as brogues.

Particularly attractive – along with Hector the mermaid hidden in this season’s prints and appliques – are the tenderly adventurous corduroy patch pocket coats and A handsome hickory and pinstripe two-piece paired with workwear in unusual deep pleated trousers. Superficially newer and more sober than his recent Cinderella collection, this Browne collection still keeps you hooked.



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