Villa Necchi Campiglio is becoming synonymous with Tod’s fashion shows, so much so that a different location might spark a rebellion. In addition to being a stunning modernist building, its racé vibe complements Walter Chiapponi’s reimagining of the label code.
The spring collection is showcased in the villa’s lush glass-ceilinged conservatory, which is set up as a chic lounge. It’s called the Italian Garden, and it’s Chiapponi’s cleanest, cleanest menswear proposition to date. The clean silhouette is “out of a Michelangelo Antonioni movie,” the designer said in a preview. All excess was stripped down to “serious elegance with just a casual twist,” he added.
Only unobtrusive geometric patterns are introduced, “almost like shadows” Chiapponi believes the essence resonates with the quest for clarity and honesty that our times demand. “Everything in the collection takes on a sharper attitude, more focus and deliberation,” he said. Complementing the look, sneakers are replaced by more soigné options, referencing the supple, elegant Italian shoe tradition. Leather alternates with high-end, mostly natural pieces; colors are toned down to slightly cooler tones. “There’s a precision to this collection that feels cold but is actually very chic,” says Chiapponi. “Being the essence is the only way to get to the heart of things.”