Wednesday, September 27, 2023
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Toga Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear

“Skin, Underwear, Spacious,” is the designer Yasuko Furuta’s signature three-word motto this season. Her catchphrase usually asks more questions than they answer: After reading it, you’d be forgiven for expecting Furuta’s unexpected pornography. But that wouldn’t be her style. Instead, the extra skin on display is a hint of biceps seen in the sleeves of a cropped jacket, or a halter-neck top cut from shirting fabric and twisted to reveal more of the shoulders. Meanwhile, lingerie details came in the form of a lace and cotton bodice that peeked out from behind the low-cut top. Furuta’s interpretation of the ongoing nudity trend is to celebrate sexiness, not anything overtly lewd.

Furuta is deeply rooted in the buzzing Tokyo art scene — in fact, even she has been unable to travel to international media to showcase her work since the pandemic began series, also far beyond her base in Japan. She has an impressive knack for treating the works of artists you can’t imagine as natural companions in the world of her wardrobe must-haves, with a sour twist and bringing them seamlessly into the fold .

This season, she saw the work of Eiko Yamazawa, one of the earliest female photographers in Japan, she was in

perfected studio portrait art , and later absorbed the influence of Abstract Expressionism to create captivating kaleidoscopes of abstract colors. Painting photos. It’s not hard to see why Furuta might have an affinity with Yamazawa, given the former’s pioneering status as one of Japan’s leading female designers, and Furuta’s similar globetrotting vision, but their work is also seamless on an aesthetic level.

As always, Furuta’s reinterpretation of the artist’s spirit from decades ago is strikingly modern: a sheer minimalist black dress over A pair of high-waisted hot shiny jacquard trousers; an oversized lined skirt cut from lightweight white cotton for a decadent feel that is very durable. Meanwhile, Yamazawa’s work came in the form of patches on graphic stretch tops and printed on T-shirts. In their most striking moments, they were blown away, splashed over flowing silk skirts and a striking cape-style black cape. Furuta is her element: her inexhaustible fascination with art history and giving it a firm momentary turn.

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