The flowing fluidity of Victoria Beckham’s opening look – a long collage of three shades of pleated silk under a trench coat, white ostrich feathers fluttering to one side – went with it Closer, there was an air of grown-up elegance to the secluded aisles of her venue. This was Beckham’s second show in Paris, and it felt like she’d hit her stride — striking a confident balance between creative garment-making and wardrobe substance.
Before the show, she talked about being eccentric and playing with clothes. Her invitation featured a portrait of Drew Barrymore, who played Little Edie in the Grey Gardens movie. She was friends with Beckham and her family when they lived in Los Angeles. “This isn’t the first time I’ve talked about Gray Gardens ,” said the designer. “But I don’t want to take it literally. It’s more about eclecticism and having fun; almost like a little girl playing dress up.”
Looking back at her designs from last season, this It looked like an evolution of the elongated silhouettes she established back then, with some bolder semi-deconstructed cuts fortifying the lineup. This is a good thing in terms of building a design identity – the power of building trust through continuity and repetition is easily forgotten these days.
Anyone who associates VB with a rotation of gowns and VIP events—say, on her New York stage—might surprise. There’s nothing short and restrained here: instead, there’s a lighter, more contained approach to styling, often a modern take on the 77s-esque silhouette. The same goes for the tailoring—Beckham’s interpretation of the wide-shouldered jacket, which can be worn as an option as a dress, looked perfect for the season.
For actual evening or red carpet attire, Beckham made some fun. She didn’t mention the word “surreal,” but several of her dresses read it that way—one leg read in a completely different way from the cliché thigh slit. (Not to mention the acrylic hair-extension trim, which, she says, was inspired by the work of artist Solange Pessoa.) Building on the success of her stellar VB Beauty line, Victoria Beckham’s future looks secure for the label.