Vogue's Editors' Favorite Collection of the Year

If I close my eyes and allow images of all the fashion shows I’ve seen at 2023 to surface, the one that stands out the most in my In memory is Valentino’s haute couture, staged on the Spanish Steps in Rome. Definitely a success for the theater – being Italian I obviously love well-crafted plays with a side of drama and glamour. Pierpaolo Piccioli has the best of both worlds. Remarkably, he was able to master the overwhelming beauty of the venue, making a series so visually powerful, so beautiful and powerful, that the Spanish Steps became a stunning frame rather than the center of attention. This is not an easy task. For me, the show is for the books. -Tiziana Cardini, Vogue Runway Contributor

KidSuper, Spring 2023 Menswear

One of the fiercest debates in our industry—one that may never be resolved—is whether fashion should be considered an art form. Personally, covering both fashion and art, I think the answer is yes. But that answer begs another question – should art be considered a fashion? After all, artists come and go from fashion. The way we hang and rehang art on our walls is not too different from the way we hang and rehang clothes on our bodies. I loved Colm Dillane’s first live show in Paris last June for his KidSuper label during menswear because it deftly addressed these issues in a way never seen before on the runway. By designing the show as an art auction, featuring both his clothes and the art that incorporates them, Dillane offers a lot of interesting food for thought. It also makes you wonder why rumors of LVMH’s interest in buying Gagosian — which LVMH has denied — may not be groundless. Hopefully, the essence of a show that ended particularly well was captured in the review, so there’s no need to repeat it here. It was a clever twist on runway form, and it kept you entertained to guess what Dillane might come up with next. – Luke Leitch, Vogue Runway Writer

Renaissance, Spring 2023

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