It’s no secret that fashion loves a debut. A new designer means endless opportunities to speculate, hypothesize, and partake in innocent but fascinating industry gossip. Last September, Milan Fashion Week boasted a quartet of debuts: There was Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo, Rhuigi VIllaseñor at Bally (who has since left the label), Marco de Vincenzo at Etro, and Filippo Grazioli at Missoni.
With its provisional calendar freshly released, this September’s MFW promises half the premieres but just as much anticipation: Peter Hawkings will present his first collection for Tom Ford on Thursday, September 21 at 9 PM local time, and Gucci’s Sabato de Sarno will unveil his vision for the Kering juggernaut the following day at 3 PM.
Tom Ford, the label, was a New York Fashion Week tent pole—minus the occasional pre-Oscars decamp to Los Angeles—but Tom Ford, the man, ascended to fashion deity status in Milan during his run at Gucci. Milan is where Hawkings started his career, too, having acted as Ford’s right hand man since 1998. So, consider this is a homecoming for Hawkings, or at least a ceremonious closing of the loop as his name rises to top billing. Gucci’s ’90s glory days are trending with a new generation of fashion followers. It remains to be seen which way De Sarno will go, but we have a hunch the house archives will fuel his vision.
Another debut of sorts is that of Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini of The Attico, who will take to the runway for the very first time on September 23 at 6 PM. The pair launched the label back in 2016, and have slowly but surely expanded their collection of street style-ready sexy essentials to include footwear, handbags, and even beachwear. Last but not least, the Brazilian-born, London-based Karoline Vitto, who’s made a name for herself via the Fashion East platform, will be flying solo for the first time on September 24 with the support of Dolce & Gabbana.
Milan Fashion Week for the spring 2024 season runs from September 19 to September 25, 2023.