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With Louise Trotter out, Lacoste turns to collective mode

This article originally appeared on Vogue Business. To receive the Vogue Business newsletter, sign up here.

Louise Trotter is stepping down as creative director at Lacoste to pursue other opportunities. The French heritage sportswear brand said it has no plans to replace her, but will instead shift to a collective model of its designs – making it the latest in a string of labels that no longer rely on a single creative lead.

“I would like to thank Louise for her creativity and commitment, as well as her contribution to the brand’s legacy,” Lacoste President Thierry Guibert said in a statement. “Lacoste is now starting a new chapter with a group of designers committed to working with Lacoste, sharing talent and connections. Beyond collection design, our brand hopes to further its mission of connecting cultures and communities.”

Trotter was appointed Creative Director 2014 in October, succeeding Felipe Oliveira Baptista. The British designer joins Lacoste from Joseph, having previously worked at high-street labels Whistles and Jigsaw. At Lacoste, she brings her creative vision to Lacoste’s shows and collections in general, bringing “true consistency” to its designs, according to the brand. “She also imagined a new wardrobe that combined comfort and style with the transition to womenswear initiated by Lacoste,” the statement read. With Lacoste’s last fashion show in October 2020 Spring/Summer 2020, Trotter learned from her passion for cycling Inspired by. According to the brand, sales of 2022 reached 2.5 billion euros.

Brands have been trying to break away from soles as creative directors in recent years. Moncler, Jean Paul Gaultier, and AZ Factory all employ a rotating designer pattern. 2020, Alexander McQueen switched to creative collective models for its secondary line McQ. Acne Studios and GmbH were originally formed as a collective. Before John Galliano stepped in, Maison Margiela relied on a design team . Lacoste’s initiative to “connect culture and community” also resonates with the late Virgil Abloh’s focus on collaboration and networking. However, the collective or rotational model has had mixed results; while it can keep the design direction fresh, there is a risk of inconsistency, and concepts can lose momentum (the McQ line was paused last year).

Trotter’s next steps are unknown. “I’m delighted to be joining this unique brand that combines tradition and avant-garde,” she said in the release. “I leave with my deepest gratitude to my creative team and my hope that they will continue to thrive.”

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